Three Burns, a Castle, a Tunnel, a Loch, and a Beach

I've had a pleasant Sunday of mixed-terrain mixed-mode (walk/jog) exploring some paths unknown, and some known, around Edinburgh today. I did not arise early as planned, I was Mr Sleepy-Head this morning, for no particular reason. Around 10am I took my usual breakfast of raw vegetable soup and pulled on cold weather running kit and trail shoes. The plan is to catch the #4 bus heading toward Hillend and alight on the Biggar Road before crossing the city by-pass. I'm disorganised, and miss the intended bus by a couple of minutes, I can see it in the distance as I approach the bus stop. Sunday service, ah, I have a chiily half an hour to wait, oh well, never mind, a short jog to keep warm, and more than enough time to grab a cappucino and warm ham-cheese toastie from the petrol station as a bit of extra breakfast. The #4 arrives, eventually, and its nice and warm inside, about thirty minutes later I'm out at the stop opposite Swanston Avenue and waiting for the Garmin to sync up with the satellites.

I wait, and I wait, perhaps I'm impatient, I don't know, but this sometimes seems to take forever ... oh please hurry up Garmin ... looking around I can see an enticing strip of dirt through the trees on the other side of the wall here, and I noticed a gap in the wall about ten metres uphill from the stop, not part of the plan for today, but looks like there's a better plan already. Soon I am on muddy tracks around the farm fields and there are distinctive studmarks in the ground, methinks the Carnethies have been here recently. The rain and the wind have started, much more than forecast, a brief stop to pull on the jacket and get some directions advice from friendly horse grooming ladies. Turns out I will have a bit of a jacket-on jacket-off day today. There's an interesting looking, obviously old, stone built tower thing to the left. I should research what that's about some day, there doesn't seem to be anything marked on the OS Explorer here. I'm alongside the Swanston Burn (number one, in case you're counting) and noticing the fields here which in places are quite flooded. Good views to the hills only slightly marred by overhead electrical lines (anyone spot the scarecrow?). Reaching Broomhills, which turns out to be a small business park, I have before me about a mile of roadwork before I reach the Burdiehouse Burn (number two). Oh well, these two burns are one and the same water course, just the name changes. Anyway, time for a drink and divert into the bushes near the footbridge for a moment. Same time, rain stopped, sun is out, I'm getting warm, jacket off time.

Delightful dirt discovery

Muddy tracks beside the farm fields

Must find out more about this tower

Great views toward the hills 

Running along side the wee Swanston Burn

There's a lot of flooding on the fields

Footbridge over Burdiehouse Burn

The wee Burdiehouse Burn is pretty enough where the litter is light, but alas there are enough dead shopping trolleys and such here. There's a track of asphalt but plenty of opportunities to avoid the black stuff and I'm surprised to find a heron, startled by my footsteps it takes flight. I see catkins in the tree here, for the first time this year, spring will be with us soon, oh please hurry up and arrive, wonderful spring. Soon I've found more bona fide dirt in the charming Ellen's Glen, and then through Moredun Wood. Hmm, imagine speaking that name in the voice of Gandalf ... just a thought which came into my mind here.

Burdiehouse Burn

Heron takes flight

Catkins ... hurry up spring!

Nice dirt in Ellen's Glen ...

... what a little gem.

Mooorrreduun Woood ... watch out for orcs?

Right so, another mile or so of somewhat tedious roadwork through Moredunvale (Gandalf voice again) and Little France (strange name, come back to that later) but soon my feet have some relief as I stand at the edge of Craigmillar Castle Park. What's this in front of me? Some nice path across the earth and a wee bit of a hill, looks great, much much better than the sidewalks. And there's a reward, at the top, a castle! I had intended to visit, and a bit of a romp around the ramparts if its possible, but I've changed my mind, I want to press on along the dirt trails downward, and I'm really enjoying jogging down here through the trees letting gravity do the real work. This castle was the home of Mary Queen of Scots, her french servants lived in a small hamlet at the bottom of the hill, hence the name "Little France".

Craigmillar Castle Park, and relief from the asphalt

Cresting the hill, a castle, the home of Mary Queen of Scots

Descending on delightful dirt through the trees

The delightful dirt deposits me in Craigmillar and a short section of roadwork toward Duddingston brings me once more to the Innocent Railway Path. The last time I was here, I made right, toward the coast. Today I make left, back toward the city. More miles on the blacktop but now with a purpose, I want to go through the long old tunnel on the Innocent, leading toward St Leonards near Holyrood Park. To my right the bulk of Arthur's Seat, in my mad mind its teasing me, whispering to me "Lyndon, how do you feel today, are you strong, will you try to scamper up to my summit?", well no, thank you, I can't be bothered today. To the left there's some wetland enjoyed by the swans, and then the tunnel. Why do I find tunnels such a fascination? The end of the tunnel is an anti-climax in an area of boring modern housing, but after a wee bit of huff puff up a few flights of steps I'm happy back on the dirt heading into Holyrood Park.

Innocent Railway Path heading toward the city

Arthur's Seat looms above to the right ...

... and swans enjoy the wetlands to the left.

The famous Innocent tunnel is approached ...

... no need for a torch the tunnel is well lit.

More delicious dirt heading back into Holyrood Park

Time to decide time now, I'm not going up to the trig point, but I could ascend a bit more then run down through Hunter's Bog, or perhaps on the stony Radical Road underneath the crags, or take the easy option and just run down on the grass slopes. The rain has started again, its kinda heavy, the wind has picked up, and I'm getting cold ... its jacket on time again. I'm also feeling hungry, breakfasts were a long time ago, so excuse me while I get lazy and take the easy option ... very nice letting gravity do the hard work again at the moment. I leave the park, Holyrood Palace and the ruins of the Abbey to my left, as I head across
playing fields. This is such a familiar place, I used to live here on the edge of the park. I trot down one of the old roads of Edinburgh, called Clockmill Lane, under the main railway line and out onto the London Road near Meadowbank Stadium. Now, I really am hungry, and mostly I am thinking about my stomach, and wondering where to stop for lunch. Well, I had not planned this part of the excursion well, not at all. I'm passing the hated McDonald's on London Road ... hmm, backtrack, I never hated the McD as such, it was the boy racers revving the engines and blasting out the music late at night waking my infant son that I hated. Hang on a moment, McDonald's, that's a kind of food isn't it, and it will be warm inside, and I really need the toilet, I really really need ... ok, here I go, its alright, its an experiment ... chicken legend with mayo (hey, there was a bit of lettuce, must have been some protein and carbs, no fries for me) with a cappuccino, and it was warm, and there was a bathroom.

Gravity doing the work down the grassland

Passing Holyrood Palace and the ruins of the Abbey ...

... across the fields in search of lunch

Just a tiny bit of revitalised roadwork and then my next stretch of dirt through Lochend Park. The Loch here (there's your Loch) is nowadays a haven for wildfowl, swans, ducks, geese ... but long ago was the major water source for Leith. There's an old pump-house, and a long disused dovecot. From here I'm back onto old branch railway line cycle paths heading toward the coast. I'm not delighted with the graffiti but I do like the plaque on this 1900 bridge. Soon I leave the asphalt, the cycle path would take me to Leith Links, another excellent piece of grassland with some interesting history, but I'll turn right on the dirt and down steps which seem to be made from old railway sleepers ... very slippery in the wet at the moment ... by the old Eastern General Hospital buildings.

More good dirt in Lochend Park

The 'Loch' is a haven for wildfowl

The old dovecot

The old pumphouse, this 'Loch' was once the water source for Leith

Back on the old branch railway line cycle paths ...

... nice plaque, not so nice graffiti

Off the asphalt onto the dirt ...

... and down the slippery sleeper steps.

I'm in this part of Edinburgh now between Leith and Portobello, its not a pretty place. Lots of industrial/commercial, a sewage plant, a rubbish dumpcivic amenity siterecycling centre, but I am turning a blind eye because I know that soon I will be over the firm sand along the beach at Portobello, joy. There is freshwater running over the beach, an ahem river ahem crossing ... the dog walkers are picking their way through the water, I just charge through, I've got wet feet by now anyway. I knew this would be low tide, but I had not realised how low. The water is below the groynes, this is a super piece of luck, I can just plod along the sand without diverting or clambering. I can see the two towers of the power plant at Prestonpans, and the Law at North Berwick, in the distance. There are good paths to these places and fine coastal scenery, I must run along there one day. Portobello is a Victorian sea-side resort, as usual we witness the tackiness of amusement arcades, but some of the buildings (at least, in my eye) are beauties. One to mention is the red brick of the swimming pool, a very fine victorian bath-house and well recommended. In fact, this is my landmark today, I must leave the beach here and head along the roads for the next stage of my journey.

The beach approaches, yippee!

At last, firm sand, lovely underfoot

Unplanned stream crossing in the sand

Low low tide and the groynes are clear, excellent

Views to Prestonpans and North Berwick in the distance

The red brick of the Victorian bath-house

I've been a little intrigued by a short section of path on the city cycle maps marked as the "Christian Path", so I'm seeking that little stretch out now. Its more asphalt, alas, but I'm satisfied because there's a plaque providing a smidging more information. "This path once took you to Portobello Station, closed in 1964. It is named after Major Hugh Christian, Portobello Provost 1882 - 1888". Just a little more roadwork and the last stretch of dirt for today, and the end of the excursion, through perhaps amusingly named Figgate Burn Park (burn number three). There's another pond here, another wildfowl haven, and a troop of bright white swans in the foreground with Arthur's Seat in the distance. In places there are weeping willows without leaves, and I am imagining these sights in the spring and summer, oh hurry up and come along spring, please. The footpath climbs away from the burn, one last peek through the trees, and then up to the roads and the bus stop for the #4 to whisk me home - luckily a mere seven minutes to wait this time.

Christian Path

Yay! Some more grass in Figgate Burn Park

Another wee haven for the wildfowl

This will be an idyllic sight in leaf, come on spring

One last peek through the trees

That was a good long Sunday of walk/jog and exploring paths new and old to me around the city. So the Garmin says, 27.4km distance, ascent/descent 455m/560m (again, not altogether believing this part), time 4:18:35. The uphill today was almost all walking, the downhill was almost all jogging, the flat was mostly jogging before lunch, and mostly walking after lunch. Well, I think may as well start writing about some cycling miles soon ... I'll need to come up with a new name for this place.

Enjoy!

Five Burns

Double deviation today ... this isn't trails, its definitely mixed terrain ... this isn't running (much), its definitely walking (mostly) ... but hey ho, I'm a "Happy Old Plodder", and indeed I did plod all the way today. Mrs and Junior kept me company for the first six miles which was nice.

So another morning using the excellent local bus service to reach the start. We've caught the #4 bus from Slateford Station, and we alight outside the Hunters Tryst on the Oxgangs Road. There's a small asphalst footpath accessible from behind the car park which is marked as a "Ministry of Defence (Army) PRIVATE ROAD". This path runs beside a supermarket and the amount of packaging and plastic bag rubbish here is horrible. To the right a narrow strip of woodland with signs "M. O. D. ARMY PROPERTY" but there are folk walking through and the soft earth here is so much kinder than the asphalt. Soon we must turn to the left along a narrow little path around the fences above Dreghorn Link. I've never seen a map which shows this little path, you just can't beat a bit of local knowledge. The path ends and we cross the city by-pass at the Dreghorn Junction with fine views toward the hills, another military road around the edge of the Pentland Hills Regional Park and across open fields to the delightful little Bonaly Burn (burn number one).

Started outside Hunter's Tryst ...

... onto a small strip of asphalt behind.

The narrow strip of army owned land to the right ...

... provides a softer path ...

... and a hidden narrow track above Dreghorn Link

On approach to Dreghorn Junction a fine view of the hills

The other side of the by-pass a section of military road ...

... across open fields ...

... down to the delightful Bonaly Burn.

The burn flows underneath the by-pass through a small tunnel and the footpath pleasantly follows the burn through woodland for a short while. We cross another open field and into the trees on the other side to find the charming Howden Burn (burn number two).

Burn and path through the tunnel ...

... beautiful along the burn here ....

... another green field to cross ...

... to find the charming Howden Burn.

The Bonaly Burn and Howden Burn are both tributaries of Braid Burn (burn number three), crossed now on a wooden footbridge as we enter Dreghorn Woods. I confess, I made a nav error here and turned left instead of crossing the bridge. Junior did something which gave me a big smile, he pointed out that the water was flowing the wrong way, or moreover we were walking the wrong way, upstream when we should have been going downstream. He remembered, I had promised to him that the route today was almost all down hill. He was right, we turned around and crossed the bridge, well done Junior. The paths through the Dreghorn Woods are a little hidden gem of Edinburgh, this really is a beautiful place, except for one thing, the paths can be very very, very ve muddy. I've never trodden them dry. This is definitely one of the off-road parts to the route today. The Dreghorn Woods are more military owned land, now managed by the city council. Apparently, there are remains of trenches here, which were used by the army to train for trench warfare in WW1.

Footbridge over Braid Burn in Dreghorn Woods ...

... a pretty muddy place ...

... a pretty place.

We will continue to follow near the Braid Burn for several miles but first the woods and paths end back on the blacktop at Redford Road, near the barracks, here a turn to the right, and then to the left down a street with the intriguing name "The Gallolee", big houses, expensive cars, but ... how to put it ... well just to say that Mock Tudor has never been one of my preferred architectural styles. No matter, there are soon some steps down into Redford Woods and back to the burn, alas on the asphalt for some time now. More great views over to the hills at Colinton Mains Park and some Sunday soccer match in progress. Continuing beside the burn we enter Braidburn Valley Park, with steep grass banks leading up to the streets on either side, but this lovely narrow strip of green along the burn here. Yep, you read right, that sign says "Cockmylane", strange but true. Also, Robert Louis Stevenson's "Road to Swanston and the Pentlands" for a bit of local historical interest. You can cycle or run or walk along the asphalt through the valley if you like, but we prefer to plod along the grassy paths through the trees. The burn disappears underground, we must climb up out of the valley and a little roadwork.

The last few yards down the Dreghorn Woods ...

... now the Mock Tudor of The Gallolee lead to ...

... the Redford Woods ...

... and the burn, along the asphalt, alas ...

... more great views of the hills from Colinton Mains Park ...

... and now into the valley where ...

... you can run on the asphalt ...

... or, better for me, the grassy paths through the trees.

The burn disappears underground for a short while.

By now Junior is thinking of his stomach, he just can't stop asking about a stop for lunch ... "are we there yet?". I'm telling him we will picnic at the visitor centre nearby, where there are toilets. Well, you have to think of these things, its not like you can nip behind a bush to drop a #2 here. We rejoin the burn on the footpaths at Hermitage of Braid, a very pretty little place indeed, with the usual river scenes. We are on the asphalt path at the bottom of the valley today, but there are gorgeous dirt trails higher up in the trees on either side, I've been in my little heaven running along them so many times. Above to the left, through the leaf-less winter-time trees I can make out the old dovecot, and Junior gets his stop for a picnic on the benches outside the old house, now visitor centre, next to the sundial. To the right, up a few steps, there's a curious little thing, an "ice house", from the days before fridges. More beautiful riverside scenes along the path, passing Agassiz Rock (anyone for a spot of bouldering? ... ah, thought not ...).

The burn regained at Hermitage of Braid ...

... such a pretty little place ...

... the sound of water rushing over the weir ...

... up through trees to the left the old dovecot.

The old house, now visitor centre, and a great picnic spot ...

... with a sundial ...

... and nearby the ice house. 

More beautiful river scenes

Agassiz Rock

The footpaths end and we are back on the roads for a little while, at first on Blackford Glen Road past the city council depot (a place where traffic lights go to die), across the golf course on the left we're seeing the King's Buildings campus of the University of Edinburgh, a place well known to me, I studied and worked there for over a decade. Now Junior is tired of the walk, bored, he wants to go home, he wants his computer games, but me, no way do I want to stop already, I'm not even half done. Mrs comes to the rescue, good lass, thank you. Reorganize the rucsacs and two will scoot off for the next bus homeward, one will continue, a shade faster progress for me now. I'm soon enjoying the dirt through the trees at Inch Park and going along half walking half jogging despite the heavy walking boots on my feet. There are squirrels everywhere, I see one hiding on a branch with bounty clamped between it's teeth. Crossing the Old Dalkeith Road I'm now around the edge of Craigmillar Castle Park with fine views over the allotments toward Arthur's Seat. I'm still on the asphalt but now soft side trails through the trees appear and I am seduced. Somewhere I've stumbled upon here where I shall have to return one day, and perhaps a visit to the castle with a bit of a romp around the ramparts, sounds like fun!

Nice dirt in Inch Park

Squirrel with bounty (zzooomm)

Great views to Arthur's Seat from Craigmillar Castle Park

Seduced by the soft side trails ...

... now, that's the way, ah ha ah ha,  I like it!

I'm not sure where these lovely little paths are taking me, but it seems to be in the right general direction, so that's good enough for me, and I'm as happy as a sandboy here. Too soon, I'm deposited on Craigmillar Castle Road, heading north toward Duddingston and then a right onto route one. Ah, so that would be National Cycle Route 1, along the Innocent Railway path. To the west leads up toward Holyrood Park through the wonderful long tunnel, and I will go through there one day, but not today, today I am heading to the east, to the coast. Just one problem, this is an excellent cycle path, good for a fast ride, and I've enjoyed a few very fast rides up and down the path, but this means I am still on the asphalt, oh well, at least there are occasional side trails through the dirt and the trees, then reaching Jewel Park, I can slog along grass of the the playing fields.

Innocent railway path heading east

The side trails offer relief from the asphalt ...

... and the grassy playing fields of Jewel Park.

Not more than a kilometre or so and I'm again doing the asphalt-and-grass-verges jive alongside Niddrie Burn (that would be burn number four) and reach the enticingly named Magdalene Glen. I'm filled with anticipation but alas this seems to be the place where shopping trolleys go to die, and the odd shopping basket.

Niddrie Burn

Magdalene Glen ...

... where shopping trolleys go to die ...

... and shopping baskets like to party.

The path ends at the Brunstane railway station with another great view over Arthur's Seat, except for one thing, the horror of the car park, for this is shopping-centre-land (hence the trolleys, and baskets, suppose). Right, so time for a side-rant, this consumer culture thing, shopping as a form of leisure (and watching the television as a form of entertainment come to think of it), and the phrase "shop 'til you drop" ... what is that all about?!*! Like, err, shopping, this is not exactly a good work-out, so what's the part about "you drop"? "I'm exhausted after a hard day over town shopping!" ... "Oh, sounds tough, I'll get you a nice cup of tea, by the way I've just run eleven miles over the hills, it was good, lots of rain and wind of course, the marshy ground up top was a bit wet and boggy." ... "I could do with that cup of tea, any biscuits?". End of side-rant, apologies for the deviation there. Despite the asphalt and the urban I'm actually quite excited here, because I am about to get onto the Brunstane Burn Walkway, a path which I remember from a few lovely runs and cycles a few years ago, on the dirt, along the beautiful Brunstane Burn (here comes burn number five). Oh, such disappointment, the burn is strewn with litter, what a horrible sight, and the dirt has all been covered with asphalt, time and change, sometimes but not always for the better. I've kept my camera away from the worst of the desolation. This could be, should be, I remember was, such a special place ... come on, Edinburgh, you can do so much better, puh-l-ease. Ah, I'm beginning to sound like Digby from the Carnethies, well, anyway there's a bit of Sun breaking through the clouds and after a smidging more of roadwork I'll be able to enjoy a happy short stretch very well and truly off the black stuff.

Nice view of Arthur's Seat, except for the blight of automobiles

Brunstane Burn Path, now alas all asphalt

Brunstane Burn, the least litter strewn sight

The Brunstane Burn path ejects me at Eastfield, between Joppa and Musselburgh. To the left I could go along Joppa and the promenade at Portobello, and that's a temptation, but I'll go right toward Musselburgh. In a couple of minutes I'm at the coast, all of a sudden the terrible sound of traffic is replaced by the sublime sound of the waves crashing on the shore. And along the beach to the harbour goes the old plodder, at a light jog, boots and all, crushing shells underfoot, and once or twice caught wet foot by the waves. (Very welcome public conveniences, I've been clenching for about the last half an hour, sorry, too much detail again.) Just a few metres of roadwork now to The Ship Inn, the end point today. Alas. no time to dally here with a jar of ale, my #44 bus home will arrive in a few minutes. Just time to phone Mrs and agree to pick up a delicious Chinese take-way supper from Taste Good (strong recommendation) on the way home.

The coast, and views across to Fife ...

... and North Berwick, a big sky today

Almost final section along the beach ...

... to the harbour at Musselburgh ...

... and the finish at The Ship Inn

Good day, weather not as sunny as forecast, but whatever, no rain to speak of, temperatures reasonable, winds minimal, a little late afternoon sunshine, a good day. Lovely to have the family with me for the first half, equally lovely to be able to pick up speed in the second half. Remember, I had told Junior the route was overall a descent. Well the distance was 20.4km, garmin says the ascent/descent is 310m/450m, but once again I know that cannot be right, google says the ascent/descent is 121m/277m which sounds closer to the real world. What is up with garmin on the ascent/descent?! Oh, anyway, I was on the go for about four hours, and on the buses for about, oh, one and a half hours. Beats the pants off driving any day!

Enjoy!