Windswept Whiteadder Wander

It has been so long now since I've enjoyed an excursion in the Lammermuir Hills. I've been hankering after running a circuit around Whiteadder Reservoir, taking in a couple of the hills which stand above the waters. Last weekend, with snow in the Pentland Hills just a stone throw from home, I simply had to go up there, and it was great. This weekend, snow melted, I'm off to scratch the itch around Whiteadder, a bit of a drive, should be well worth the effort!

I've parked near the picnic area south-east of the reservoir. Just a couple of hundred yards back along the road and then a right onto the soft earth up and over the Hungry Snout. Steep at first away from the road, then easier lovely going beside a strip of forest. Soon the views open up and I can see ahead my first hill today, its called Spartleton. Good running over the grassy green hill farm tracks with wind to my back. Its a strong wind, soon I must make a sharp left, I know this wind will be difficult today.

Short steep start up the Hungry Snout

Easier good going on the soft ...

... soon the views open and I see Spartleton ahead.

Lovely running on the green hill farm tracks with great views behind.

I've made my sharp left, onto rougher tracks, much softer under-foot, sometimes flooded. Surprisingly, my feet seem to be pretty dry at the moment, so I feel its worth diverting around the watery pools, through the heather and tussocs. The wind, as expected, is causing difficulties, movement into the wind is much impeded, meaningful running is almost impossible. Short while later I land on a dirt track, a gravel/stone road. For various reasons the Lammermuirs seem to have a lot of these roads, they are not usually my favourite way of getting around the hills, but some firmer ground under-foot is welcome at the moment. The reason for the road, in this case, is probably wind farms. There are a lot of wind farms in these hills. I'm good with the whole renewable energy thing - just a shame these structures spoil the views (more on this later). I've got this track all the way to the summit, without the wind it would be a section of easy enough uphill running, with this wind I am finding I can walk faster than I can run, strange ... anyway, the summit cairn and trig are reached, and a welcome breather to take some pictures.

Now rougher tracks heading toward the summit ...

... with diversions around the watery pools.

Lammermuir style hill roads with wind-farm in the distance

The roads will take me up to the summit now

The summit cairn and trig at last ...

... and a fine view of a wind-farm.

I am guessing you might have noticed a wind-farm there ... well anyway I'm looking ahead at the route forward. Hmm, wind-farms means pylons. I've decided to stay on the dirt track a short while, I know I will come to a left turn onto a soft farm track which leads in the general direction of my next touristic direction. I avoid another water hazard crossing Cot Cleugh and then the first nav error of the day, took the wrong turn and had to plough across marshy rough to reach the ruins of Gamalshiel Castle next to Hall Burn. (Note to self: research history of this castle.) Wet feet now! Short pause to take some pictures of the ruins, answer the call of nature, and a fast descent on more soft green hill farm tracks to the reservoir. On the descent, spotted a couple of walkers ascending on Sprottylea Rig, the only other folk I saw out today.

Begin descent on the dirt track, more wind-mills and pylons

Happy to leave the hard road on soft green hill farm tracks again ...

... avoid the flooded place crossing Cot Cleugh ...

... and on past the ruins of Gamelshiel Castle near Hall Burn.

Alas, not much choice, but just under a mile on the asphalt now. I discover that I am on the "Herring Road". The sign reads ... "This old path is named because it was used by the fishwives of Dunbar when carrying massive creels of herring to market in Lauder. This track was one of the many different routes that were used by the fishwives over the centuries as paths became eroded and were replaced." These folk lived hard lives, they were tough, respect! Running along the road toward Priestlaw Farm, a flock of geese in the fields to my left, they noisily beat a retreat as I approach. Now ahead of me the small bridge over Faseny Water and the second summit of the day, Priestlaw Hill. I've not been up here before, I have no knowledge of the tracks and paths, so my eyes are scanning the hillside searching for a route. There seems to be a wide path, but I will have to traverse, ascend a little, and then back-track traverse, to get there. Just before the back-track I am seduced by a narrow trod through the heather, I always love a narrow trod. Its tough going, the wind has picked up and is causing even more of a problem now, but the views back down over Faseny Water, the reservoir and Spartleton are a reward.

The "Herring Road"

Flock of geese in the field running away - but you guys can fly!

Bridge over Faseny Water, and Priestlaw Hill ahead.

Ascending Priestlaw on a narrow trod, hard work ...

... but views behind are a reward.

Then the narrow trod dissapears, or perhaps I've just lost the thing semi-blinded by the bright low afternoon sun in my eyes. I can just about make out a traversing sheep track which maybe will lead me to the wider green path I had seen earlier. Luckily this eventually does land me on the track, leading up through a series of well maintained wood and stone grouse butts. The terrain underfoot is easier, but the steep is relentless, and the wind now full to the face is fierce. I am moving head-down, teeth-gritted, and tiring too quickly, I hope I will reach the summit soon. Then I look above my head, and notice this beautiful cloud floating above me. This lifts my spirits, I am moving head-up following the cloud, and soon the summit furniture appears, at last. I take a short pause for the camera, and a quick check of the map, then without more ado, away from here hoping to get out of the wind - its almost blowing me over at the moment!

Trod is lost, traverse, look for a better path.

Just noticed this wonderful cloud swimming through the sky above my head ...

... like a guardian angel it takes me to the summit ...

... views from the summit and another wind-farm.

There's another narrow trod through the heather leading in almost the perfect general direction, so I follow, until it dissappears and more hard work across the rough - but yay its easier and faster now, the wind is mostly to my back, and I'm descending. Surprising number of grouse feeding stations about the place, and I can hear the sounds of gunfire echoing around the bowl of hills above the reservoir. I come out of the rough ground on another hill dirt track, this one softer, more muddy, and it appears to be marked on the map. I'll follow it for a while, enjoy the easier going, soon it bends into the exact wrong direction, but I can see there is a fork, a sharp right back in the correct general direction. The map marks the concentric rings of an ancient hill fort, easily visible on the satellite images, and quite large. I want to find this place, so over the rough again and soon found, a few photos, but what I like best is the colours of the bracken.

Short lived but much enjoyed trod descending ...

... after more rough ground, relief of the dirt track.

Found the rings of the ancient hill fort ...

... for me the main event is the colours of the bracken.

I started this journey today ascending the Hungry Snout to the north of Whiteadder Water. I will just about end this journey descending the Friars' Nose to the south. Love the names here. I stand above the steep descent looking toward the picnic area and the car. I am almost done but there are a couple of issues ahead. First the descent is very steep, not a problem, but there are no paths and the heather is abundant. Soon the heather gives way to easier going and I am scanning the river for a crossing point. I decide to run on to a couple of trees below and pause there to choose a wading point. Turns out, no need, from the trees I can see a bridge - just a couple of barbed wire fence hops then I'm over the river and done, happy enough, feeling it in the legs today.

On the Friars' Nose, looking down to the river ...

... hmm, where shall I wade across ...

... ah, no need, yay!

Tough going for the old plodder, but an enjoyable outing today, and well worth the driving. Checked the garmin data, distance was pretty much 12km dead, total ascent/descent 490m, on the go for 2:00:52. Great sunshine, blue skies, memorable cloud, cold, and that wind. What's not to like, eh? Well, apart from that wind ... oh, by the way, here's the route again.

Enjoy!

First snow

Snow! We have snow! The first snow of winter. Not so much in the city, but much on the hills, very exciting for me. I had hoped to steal a couple of hours on Thursday, alas that did not work out, luckily family kindly granted me a couple of hours leave this weekend afternoon. Put the car in at Boghall with a vague plan, head along the footpath to the hill fort below Castlelaw, up top of Castlelaw, down and along the "red brick road", over Allermuir Hill, along the ridge over Caerketton Hill, and then ... well, somehow back to Boghall, lots of options, figure that part out later.

Worn: Walsh PB shoes, socks, leggings, shorts, under-shirt, over-shirt, windproof, light-weight beanie and gloves, garmin.

Carried: Waterproofs, extra shirt, warm hat and gloves, whistle, survival blanket, survival food, water, mobile, cash and cards, keys, camera - only camera used.

So, the start, at Boghall Farm, my car is alone in the car park. Ahead are icy/muddy footpaths around the farm, with snow in the fields - looks like these fields could be good for some sledging fun at the moment. The route marker arrows indicate right, but I know that behind a few trees we have a small footbridge over the burn, part covered in ice, take care not to slip here. Now for a short while up between the trees in delightful Boghall Glen, the sound of the river below to my right, then out onto the open snow-covered fields. I'm on a relatively new path from Boghall to Castlelaw hill fort, the path officially runs around the edge of the field, but there are footprints in every direction, so I will head across the snow on the most direct route - there are only some sheep on the other side of the field today.

The start, at Boghall Farm, ice and mud.

Crossing the burn in Boghall Glen ...

... and up through the trees ... 

... to the open fields, covered in snow.

Lovely running along the line of trees above the field, although the ground is either animal hoof churned frozen mud (ankles!) or simply soft wet mud (squelch!). Soon I reach a short boardwalk over a section of especially muddy ground. Beware wooden structures, they are prone to decay, and very slippery in studded running shoes, I must take care here. I am chuckling to myself, remembering a run in February a couple of years ago, further South in these hills ... I slipped on a wooden railway sleeper bridge and fell right into the cold water below. Through another gate to another snow covered field, and realisation that I have only the vaguest memories of the route here, it has been a long time. Footprints in two directions - a lone walker along the edge of the field and then down into the next valley, two runners have descended toward this point, across the field. I choose to follow the footprints of the runners, one pair of Salomon, one pair of Inov8, up the slope of the field. Soon I realise I am in an unfamiliar place, and the studmarks turn left back toward the main road. I can see a break in the wall below, and then a gate, and looks like a faint pair of ATV tracks in the general correct direction, so I'll head that way. My first target summit, Castlelaw, towers above me to the right. The faint ATV tracks turn out to be a kind of deception, I am ploughing uphill through ankle deep or more snow on rough ground, this is tough, not really runnable, hard work to even walk at a decent pace. I can see the fence and signs around the edge of the military shooting range area close, there can not be much more of this toil to come, and the view of the Sun and Turnhouse Hill lifts my spirit.

Lovely through the trees although tough underfoot.

Take care on the slippery boardwalk!

Target one, Castlelaw, towers above ...

... but first I must toil up through the snow on rough ground.

Sight of the sun over Turnhouse Hill lifts me,

Soon I arrive at one of the military roads (rough tracks) up here and the going is easier, very runnable, happy to be moving along with a bit more speed. Just one problem, the wind, its strong with a few fierce gusts. I reach the turning to my left up a very steep path to the summit of Castlelaw, Its my second favourite path up to the summit and was my plan for today. I don't fancy another session of slogging on tough ground through steep ankle (plus) deep snow, and I would have to do battle with that wind. So like a wimp I decide to skip this summit, and carry on along the military road. Interesting snow drift on the side of the road. Then as I reach a fork I see a lone walker heading up my number one favourite path up to the top of this hill, a narrow and steep path, not much more than a sheep track. Short pause to think, alright, decided, I'll head up that lovely little path, but it will be a real slog, so I'll stow the camera until I'm back on the road ... should be about fifteen minutes.

Good to be on the military tracks now, Castlelaw ahead ...

... route one up to the summit and footprints in the snow ...

... carrying on along the military road, drifts on my left.

Walker in the distance on my favourite ascent, I'll head that way now.

Well, quite a slog up, and a fast descent on the military road which leads from the summit. I'm back on the red brick road looking toward Allermuir Hill, target number two for today. Along the way, looking over my shoulder at Scald Law and Carnethy Hill, there is heavy weather, perhaps coming this way. Scurry along old plodder, and then some entertaining drift at the cattle grid. Here a turn to my right, yay the wind is a shade more to my back, and another short tough climb in drifted snow. The summit furniture is a welcome sight, and two other runners coming up in the opposite direction. We exchange a few friendly words.

Back to easier, faster, running along the military roads.

Looks like rough weather might be coming.

Entertaining drifting at the cattle-grid.

Summit of Allermuir a welcome sight now, and a couple of runners approach.

Now for me the steep down the other side. More snow drift, deeper, but that's big fun on the way down! Looking over my shoulder, the two runners from the summit are coming down the same way, I feel sure that they are having big fun as well. I pause above the Windy Door Nick and exchange a few brief words, but they are thinking about the probable incoming weather, and scamper away. I'm a bit tired now, and reaching the summit cairn of Caerketton Hill is a kind of relief, the last summit for me today. I'm going to continue along the ridge, but now it is time to think about the route back to Boghall. I could run along to the end of the ridge, and then down north to the top of the skip slope, and familiar paths. I could run a bit along the ridge, then cross the fence to my right, and find some way down to the main path along Boghall Glen, back to the farm and the car park. First option is a bit longer but known, second option should be a bit shorter but not known, perhaps rough ground and drift drudge.

Woo hoo! Big fun run down the steep through the drift!

The two runners behind me also having big fun :)

Welcome sight, summit cairn on Caerketton, last top for me today.

Looking along the end of the ridge, contemplating route choice.

The wind had strengthened on the way up Caerketton, its pretty fierce, and the direction has changed a bit. The heavy weather could be here very soon. Oh, hey, what's this, a fence crossing point, and looks like a small path on the other side, and there is one pair of footprints. I think I've never really noticed this point before, so hey-ho, that's the way for me today. Too soon I lose the faint path and the footprints and I'm down over the rough, trying to avoid the drifts. Mostly it goes well, quite fast, and taking care to stay on ground where the vegetation is visible above the snow. Sometimes, not so well, legs in snow calf deep. Oh well, I know the walker path through Boghall Glen is not far below me, enjoy the descent. Checking the watch for a moment, its sunset time, but not the most spectacular sunset I've seen up here in the hills, in the snow ... still, a nice sight.

Yay! A new route over this crossing point!

The faint path soon becomes rough ground on descent.

Just a few entertaining calf deep drifts.

Sunset time, perhaps not the best, but lovin' it anyway.

Good to reach the walker path and easier faster running again, the snow lighter, often compacted. Lower down, by the weather station, it turns mostly to ice and mud. Not far to go now. Running down the glen I once more hear the sounds of the burn, now down to my right. I also now hear the less pleasant sounds of traffic on the A702. Time for a digression ... pretty much every time I drive out to one of the car parks beside this road to run on the delightful paths in the hills, I see several people running along the road. Why? Every one of them is a breath away from a gorgeous network of paths through and over the hills, where the sound is peace and nature, and the air is clean, and underfoot the earth is soft and gentle. I think they are mad to miss this gift, but hey, probably they think me and my ilk are mad to run in these places. Horses for courses? I think not! Anyway, I am nearly done, back-track along just a few more gates, a few more fields, and then the footpaths around the farm to the car park. Running along the footpaths, through the light half-frozen snow, I am amused to see my stud-marks, my footprints, from the start today.

Good going now along the easier underfoot walkers' path ...

... which turns to ice and mud at the weather station.

Loving the sound of the burn below to my right ...

... and my stud-marks from the start this afternoon.

Returning to the car park, felt good, happy to be done. Few more cars now, and a couple of families having fun sledging in the fields. Note to self: In the run up to Christmas, must try get junior out for a spot of sledging before this wonderful white stuff melts away. Tough session for me today, just 8.2km distance, about 420m ascent/descent, on my feet for 1:31:28, was great to get some fresh air in the lungs, and you have to love the snow. One very good friend suggested I should add a piece to these blog posts, to show my route, so here's the route captured from Google Earth, just hope I don't get into any kind of copyright trouble now ;)

Enjoy!